Gold filled vs gold plated: what the FTC Jewelry Guides say

Gold filled vs gold plated: the legal difference

The difference between gold filled and gold plated is how much gold the surface layer holds and how it is attached. The FTC Jewelry Guides define gold filled by weight: the gold alloy layer must be at least 1/20th of the weight of the metal in the entire article. Gold plated can mean a mechanically bonded layer of at least 1/40th of the weight of the metal in the entire article, or an electroplated layer measured by thickness, at least 0.175 microns (approximately 7/1,000,000ths of an inch) of fine gold.

Both terms describe a piece that is not gold throughout, with gold only on the surface, so neither should be sold as plain gold. The guides list the unqualified word gold as misleading on any piece not made throughout of fine (24 karat) gold. The table sets out every gold term in the guides, plus vermeil, side by side.

Electroplating thickness is counted as fine gold. The guides give the conversion: 1 micron of 12 karat gold is equivalent to one-half micron of 24-karat gold. A lower-karat plating therefore has to be thicker to reach the same minimum.

What the FTC Jewelry Guides are and who they apply to

The FTC Jewelry Guides are the Federal Trade Commission's guides for the jewelry, precious metals and pewter industries, published in the Code of Federal Regulations. Gold content is covered in § 23.3 Misrepresentation as to gold content, and vermeil in § 23.4 Misuse of the word “vermeil.”.

The guides apply at every level of the trade (including but not limited to manufacturers, suppliers, and retailers). A maker who sells their own work falls inside that list. They cover claims in labeling, advertising, promotional materials, and all other forms of marketing, so a stamp inside a ring, a hang tag, a product title and a social media caption all count.

The guides help sellers avoid claims that are unfair or deceptive under Section 5 of the FTC Act. They do not confer any rights on any person and do not operate to bind the FTC or the public, but the Commission may take action under the FTC Act if a marketer or other industry member makes a claim inconsistent with the guides. Rules vary by state or city, and this page is general information about the FTC's definitions, not legal advice.

What gold filled means

Gold filled describes a piece with a layer of gold alloy bonded to all significant surfaces by soldering, brazing, welding, or other mechanical means. The layer must be not less than 10 karat fineness and make up at least 1/20th of the weight of the metal in the entire article. A lighter bonded layer cannot be called gold filled, though it may still qualify as rolled gold plate.

The ratio is by weight across the whole piece, so the gold needed grows with the piece. Example: a chain whose metal weighs 10 grams needs at least 0.5 grams of gold alloy in its layer to be called gold filled, while a 0.3 gram layer meets only the rolled gold plate minimum.

The term should be immediately preceded by a correct designation of the karat fineness of the alloy that is of at least equal conspicuousness. The same applies to an abbreviation such as GF. The plating also has to be of reasonable durability, which the guides define as meaning that all areas of the plating are sufficiently thick to assure coverage that reasonable consumers would expect from the surface application.

Rolled gold plate and gold overlay

Rolled gold plate and gold overlay use the same mechanical bonding as gold filled, with a lower minimum. The layer must be not less than 10 karat fineness and make up at least 1/40th of the weight of the metal in the entire article. A piece at that level may also be called gold plate or gold plated.

These marks can carry a fraction. The guides allow overlay and rolled gold plate marks when the karat designation is immediately preceded by a fraction accurately disclosing the portion of the weight of the metal in the entire article accounted for by the plating. Their examples read “1/40th 12 Kt. Rolled Gold Plate” or “1/40 12 Kt. R.G.P.”. Without a fraction, the guides list marks such as “14 Kt. Gold Overlay,” or “14K. R.G.P.”.

What gold plated means

The guides' examples give gold plated two routes: the bonded layer of at least 1/40th of the weight of the metal in the entire article described above, or electroplating, where the gold is deposited by an electrolytic process.

For electroplating, the guides measure thickness instead of weight. A piece may be called gold plate, gold plated, gold electroplate or gold electroplated when all significant surfaces carry gold, or a gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, with a minimum thickness of 0.175 microns (approximately 7/1,000,000ths of an inch) of fine gold. The mark puts the karat first, as in “12 Karat Gold Electroplate” or “12K G.E.P.”.

At 2 1/2 microns (approximately 100/1,000,000ths of an inch) of fine gold, the piece may be called heavy gold electroplate. That is the same thickness the guides set for vermeil, but on any base metal.

Some pieces have a gold layer, then a base metal such as nickel, then a thin gold wash on top. Calling such a piece gold plated, gold filled, rolled gold plate or gold overlay needs a disclosure that the primary gold coating is covered with a base metal, which is gold washed.

What vermeil means

Vermeil is the only term in this group with a required base metal. The guides allow it for a base of sterling silver coated or plated on all significant surfaces with gold. The coating must be gold, or gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, with a minimum thickness of 2 1/2 microns (approximately 100/1,000,000ths of an inch) of fine gold.

Sterling has its own definition in the same guides: a piece called sterling must be at least 925/1,000ths pure silver. Gold over brass, copper or stainless steel does not meet the vermeil definition at any thickness. It can be called gold plated, or heavy gold electroplate, if it meets the minimums for those terms.

If a base metal such as nickel sits between the silver and the gold, the guides call for a disclosure that the sterling silver is covered with a base metal that is plated with gold.

How a maker should label each piece

These steps follow the guides' wording. They apply to the stamp on the piece and to every listing, tag and ad that describes it.

1. Get the specification from your supplier

   Ask for the karat of the gold layer, how it was applied, and either the weight ratio for bonded layers or the plating thickness for electroplate. For vermeil, also confirm the base is sterling silver and whether any nickel layer sits under the gold.

2. Pick the term the specification supports

   For a bonded layer, the weight ratio decides between gold filled and rolled gold plate. For electroplate, the thickness decides between gold plated and heavy gold electroplate.

3. Put the karat first

   Gold filled, rolled gold plate, gold overlay and gold plated should each be immediately preceded by a correct designation of the karat fineness of the alloy that is of at least equal conspicuousness, in the stamp and in the listing title.

4. Qualify the word gold

   Under the guides, the word gold on a plated piece may mislead unless it is adequately qualified to indicate that the product or part is only surface-plated. A product title reads gold plated or gold filled, never gold on its own.

5. Use the same term everywhere

   The guides cover claims in labeling, advertising, promotional materials, and all other forms of marketing. Use one term in the stamp, the title, the description, the photo captions and the ads, and do not call a plated piece solid gold or real gold anywhere.

Listing wording that may mislead, and wording that fits

The rows below apply the guides to common listing titles. Each piece is a labelled example, not a real product. Replace [karat] with the karat your supplier states.

Where Nation fits

Questions about gold filled and gold plated